November - taboos and toads (in holes)
While it shouldn’t be taboo, many people still feel rather squeamish as to where their meat actually comes from, whether that be a burger from a fast food outlet or organic beef from a local farm shop. For us it constitutes a 14 mile trip to the seaside before school.
It’s become something I’m strangely proud of. My daughter has been coming on the abattoir run for as long as we’ve been doing it. She gets to say goodbye to whichever animal is loaded into the trailer, she eats her breakfast in the truck en route, we talk about our happy memories of the animal, and then we talk about what recipes we will use for the meat; and for the sheep, in which room we will put the fleece rug and what we will make out of the horns. She understands how meat is produced and has the greatest respect for the animals that we raise for this purpose, in fact she’s quite opinionated about it even at her young age!
We are blessed, and I do mean that, to have a small, family run local abattoir less than half an hour away. Not only does this allow us to support a local business, but crucially we don’t have to take our animals on a hefty, uncomfortable and potentially stressful long journey.
We rear animals for a lot longer and grow them much slower than larger commercial farms, which means that we really do know each animal individually. We love and care for them from birth, they don’t know anywhere or anyone else, so it’s incredibly important to us that we offer the same at the end of their lives.
I’m often asked if ‘it gets easier’ to say goodbye, and I don’t think my answer will ever change. Its an easy no, I still have a little weep and its always unpleasant seeing an empty field or pig sty. But, I believe in eating meat and I enjoy it, and by cooking and consuming meat that I produce myself I can be certain that my family, friends and supper club guests are getting the most nutritious, well cared for, well fed meat possible.
Tremendous toad in the hole
One recipe we make on repeat with sausages we make from our own pigs is toad in the hole. It’s an absolute ‘banger’ of a classic dish that never fails to put a smile on people’s faces. I have friends that consistently request it when they come to visit, and I’m always happy to oblige. Hailing from the north (midlands) originally I am naturally a huge gravy fan, this root veg gravy is so delicious and really easy, the flavour of the earthy roots pairs so well with the porky sausages and fluffy Yorkshire pudding.
For the toad in the hole
1/2 pint full fat milk
125g plain flour
3 eggs
Salt and white pepper
Olive oil
6 perfect, high welfare bangers
Cover the bottom of your toad pan with olive oil and throw on the sausages, roast in an oven at 180 degrees until golden all over; this will give your sausages a perfect crack when you eat them (around 20-25 minutes).
In a separate bowl whisk the batter ingredients together seasoning well with salt and pepper.
Once the sausages are sizzling and golden brown all over, turn the oven up to high, 225degrees and leave to reach temperature. Once the pan, oil and sausages are up to temp pour the toad batter in, close the oven door gently and do not open for at least 20 minutes. Carefully check the toad after 20 minutes, it may need 5 minutes longer, it should be crispy, fluffy and all the shades of autumn.
For the root vegetable gravy
Roughly chop 2 leeks, 1 onion, 3 large carrots, 1 parsnip
Roast the vegetables with 3 cloves of garlic, a handful of bay leaves, rosemary and thyme sprigs, a hearty glug of olive oil and a generous knob of butter. After 45 minutes they veggies should be soft, slightly sticky and golden; mash them well and place the tin on the hob with 2 tablespoons of plain flour. Cook the flour out for at least 5 minutes over a low heat, the flour should take on a little colour which will add a nuttiness to your gravy. Follow with a pint of Somerset cider and 175ml of vegetable stock. Allow the liquid to simmer and reduce for 10 minutes. Sieve the gravy, season with salt, pepper and a dash of cider vinegar.
Lavish your toad in the hole with the thick sweet gravy and flight over who gets the first slice.